Jambon beurre, meaning ham-butter, or just ham on buttered baguette, might be the quintessential French sandwich. It’s a staple for a picnic or a quick lunch with a tot of Beaujolais. And it sounds easy enough.

But, as Pierre-Antoine Raberin recalled, it prompted the chef Alain Ducasse to note that “the simpler things can be most difficult.”

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You can find jambon beurre at a number of spots across the city, like Frenchette Bakery, Balthazar, the new Pavé and Épicerie Boulud, where it comes with slices of Gruyère. And the advantage to buying, not making, the sandwich is a matter of French fashion: It will come partly cut in half and tightly wrapped in paper, just one end peeking out, and like a perfectly tied scarf, with that touch of French panache.

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Jin Ahn, an owner of Noreetuh, a Hawaiian restaurant in the East Village, and the chef Jonghun Won, the owner of La Tabatiere, a bakery in Closter, N.J., first met while working at Jungsik in TriBeCa. Both share a passion for French baguettes, freshly baked. The inevitable result, Pavé, is a small Midtown bakery-cafe that specializes in French-inspired sandwiches on crusty baguette rolls that are baked throughout the day. “It’s fresh bread the old-fashioned way,” Mr. Ahn said. The partners also hired Peter Hong, a chef who was at Gramercy Tavern. Mr. Won is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America who trained at Balthazar. Pavé also sells other baked goods like madeleines, cookies and focaccia laden with vegetables. They’re still working on their croissant.

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Pavé
At this pristine little storefront cafe, which bakes its own bread, sandwiches—like a $12 croque monsieur and a $9 country paté with cornichon on baguette—are served to eat in (at a cluster of tables in back) or to take away. Open Mon. to Fri., 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. 20 West 46th St.

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While in the cruxes of Times Square, I heard my stomach rumbling. I assumed I’d only ever find Margaritaville, Applebee’s, and Dave & Buster’s branches for food and drink options, but located just off of Sixth Ave. at 46th St is a tiny mint blue bakery dedicated to all things French: Pavé.

I must admit that at one time in my life, I didn’t really understand the hype with French food. I had only experienced that high-end, white tablecloth type of experience that feels unapproachable. My attitude changed with a trip to Lyon last summer when I got a quick Camembert and butter sandwich on a baguette to take with me on the train. I bit into the decadent yet simple sandwich and suddenly realized why French food had never clicked with me. I hadn’t experienced it in its simplest form: the literal perfection of French bread making, the decadence of French butter, and a good ol’ stinky soft-rind French cheese.

Since that trip to Lyon, I have been on a hunt to find the best humble French dishes in New York City, and luckily, I finally found Pavé.

Even as the author of this column, I can admit that the term “hidden gems” has become overused, but Pavé is the very definition of a hidden gem. It’s in an area where it can feel impossible to find a good spot, but simply swinging the doors open will lead you to a breath of fresh air, mainly because that air is filled with the scents of freshly baked bread.

I opted for the everything baguette, the jambon beurre (or ham and butter) sandwich, and the passion fruit brioche. I got my arrangement of bread and pastries with a double espresso, though if you come later in the day you should know wine is also available. When I ordered the everything baguette, I was asked, “With butter or without?” which seemed like a pointless question at a French bakery; the answer is obviously “with.”

Speaking of butter, the jambon beurre is a classic French sandwich and the epitome of simple French cuisine. The sliced baguette is slathered thick with room temperature butter and stuffed with perfectly folded, thinly sliced ham. At Pavé, there are a few specks of grainy mustard, adding a slight zing and pop to the otherwise fatty and velvety sandwich. The jambon beurre not only reminded me of the sandwich from just last year that made me truly appreciate French cuisine, but it’s arguably the best deal in the area at only $7.50.

The everything baguette is triangular shaped, which I was not expecting but pleasantly surprised to see. When I was asked if I wanted butter, I assumed it would be room temp or even cold butter. Instead, when I opened up the serrated baguette, I was met with mounds of oozing warm melted butter. Who on Earth needs croissants, or even bagels for that matter, when you could eat the everything baguette from Pavé instead? It’s crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, and with only a kiss of everything bagel seasoning, I’d argue that it’s a perfect piece of bread.

The passion fruit brioche was the only thing from Pavé that didn’t blow my mind. I ordered passion fruit hoping for a tart and tangy taste, but instead, was met with a custard that leaned too far on the sweet side. However, even with the marks missed from the passion fruit brioche, I’d go out of my way for another bite of their savory baguettes.

Despite the associations with French food always being pretentious and decadent, Pavé is proof that sometimes the art of French food lies in its simplicity.

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This little cafe is a true refuge in the middle of a chaotic neighborhood thanks to its quiet, charming atmosphere—it isn’t mobbed by tourists and influencers who just want to take photos. The food here leans classic French, with an excellent country pate sandwich and a passionfruit brioche we’d go out of our way to eat. It’s the ideal location for a quick snack or lunch and a break from the crowds.

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Pavé
What’s better than chewing on a warm piece of bread, fragrant and fresh out of the oven?
Nothing more. Nothing less

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Q: What was your earliest interest in cooking?

A: I always loved going to different bakeries as a child. As a result, I naturally wanted to learn how to make bread, and although I studied music in college, I enrolled in baking & pastry institute.

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Pavé
Chef Jonghun Won (Balthazar, Jungsik Restaurant, La Tabatiere) and Jin Ahn (Per Se, Jungsik Restaurant, Noreetuh) are co-founders of Pavé. Their friendship and passion for their craft brought them together to launch this European-style cafe/bakery which launched mid-September

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